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<  Hobby Section  ~  How to sculpt fur?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 6:32 pm
User avatarPulp City IconPosts: 1819Location: Cornwall, UKJoined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:22 pm
Does anyone knoe of or have a good tutorial for scultping fur out of green stuff?

Never tried it before and need to fill gaps on a hairy ape



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 6:42 pm
User avatarGuardian of PulpPosts: 4526Location: House of Jade LanternsJoined: Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:16 am
I normally fill with a small blob of GS, let it start to stiffen for a few minutes, then drag a sharp sculpting tool in one direction again and again, keeping mindful to keep wetting the tip.

I am sure more accomplished green stuffers will give better tips. :)



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:10 pm
User avatarHeraldPosts: 1461Location: Zen StudiosJoined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:43 pm
When it comes to things like Fur, its very dependent upon the tools you use to shape the putty (no offense intended if you are a GW fan, but the tools they sell are woefully inadequate) - with the right tools it starts getting easy really quickly.

Linda bought me some Dental tools ages ago, I haven't looked back since. (Kinda like these but without the mirror http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Dentist-Mirror-Pick-Dental-Tool-Set-Kit-6-Piece-UK-/140657371032?pt=UK_HealthBeauty_DentalCare_RL&hash=item20bfd52798)

Keep the putty soft and flexible, a little more yellow than blue in the mix. Smooth it over the join to be covered, you will actually need more putty than you think - so leave a smoothed "bump" over the join.

Put some deep(ish) cuts in the putty, these then begin to form the shape of the fur (such early efforts will probably get sculpted over as you shape your putty over the join, but it never hurts to start thinking about the the final "look" of what you are sculpting) then, around the first cuts made at the beginning of the process, start making a broken/staggered pattern with your sculpting tool.

Your staggered cuts will quite naturally create extended diamond shapes, and stretched out triangles here and there - use your tool to drag and distort these, pushing certain areas flat and leaving others more raised - this gives a more realistic "furry" look.

Don't be afraid to poke, push, shape, and drag until YOU are happy with the look (after all, its only putty right - it's easy to start again) and don't forget to keep your tool well lubricated - a lot of people use a sponge soaked in cooking oil - I just use good old fashioned spit LoL!

That's about all the advice I can give you without showing it to you in person sorry.



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:02 pm
User avatarPulp City IconPosts: 1819Location: Cornwall, UKJoined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:22 pm
Thanks for that. Will give it a try. Probably on a seperate piece as I havent used GS before.
Will let you know how I get on.

Do you know if the new liquid GS would work for 'fur' gap filling?



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:25 pm
User avatarHeraldPosts: 1461Location: Zen StudiosJoined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:43 pm
Liquid greenstuff just fills gaps, its no good for sculpting missing detail.



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:56 pm
User avatarPulp City IconPosts: 1819Location: Cornwall, UKJoined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:22 pm
That saved me from a major mistake then



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:06 am
User avatarHeraldPosts: 1461Location: Zen StudiosJoined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:43 pm
You can actually make the same material as "Liquid Greenstuff" by mixing Miliput and Water.

There are a couple of other alternatives, Mr Surfacer (which isn't water soluble) and Vallejo Plastic Putty (Vallejo's plastic putty comes in a 17ml bottle and is slightly cheaper) - the only reason to by the GW product is if you like the shape of the pots LoL!

Although I have all three - I tend to use Miliput personally - its sandable/scrapable when set - whereas the others often flake if you have to do any other work on the area you have used them on.

Both Liquid Greenstuff and Vallejo Plastic Putty are best used just for filling joins really, and can be very useful to that end - as there is no mixing etc. required.



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